Mount Wutai-Taiyuan-Pingyao Tour: Foguang Temple + Nanchan Temple + Jinci Temple
Of the four surviving Tang Dynasty wooden structures in China, two are in Shanxi. Today, you will visit these two thousand-year-old temples hidden deep in Mount Wutai — Foguang Temple and Nanchan Temple — following in the footsteps of Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin to experience the true "lingering charm of the Great Tang." Afterward, head to Taiyuan to visit Jinci Temple.
First, you will drive about 2 hours (about 50 kilometers) to visit Foguang Temple. [Foguang Temple] was first built in 857 AD (Tang Dynasty), with a history of over 1,160 years. It is not only one of the filming locations for the game Black Myth: Wukong, but also a "pilgrimage site" in the hearts of countless ancient architecture enthusiasts. But you may not know that it was rediscovered in 1937, when the Society for the Study of Chinese Architecture, to which Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin belonged, found clues in the "Mount Wutai Map" in Cave 61 of the Mogao Caves in Dunhuang. Following the map, they finally found this Tang Dynasty hall forgotten for a thousand years. This discovery single-handedly shattered the assertion by Japanese scholars that "there are no Tang Dynasty wooden structures left in China."
East Great Hall: Four Tang Treasures in One
The essence of Foguang Temple is concentrated in the East Great Hall at the highest point on the east side of the temple. It is China's second-oldest surviving wooden structure (after Nanchan Temple, which you will visit later), and Mr. Liang Sicheng praised it as "China's No. 1 national treasure."
Why is it so important? Because the East Great Hall preserves four original Tang Dynasty elements in a single hall:
Tang Dynasty wooden structure: It has the highest-ranking seven-tier dougong (bracket sets) still extant, magnificent in scale.
Tang Dynasty painted sculptures: Of the roughly 70 surviving Tang Dynasty temple painted sculptures in China, more than 30 are in the East Great Hall.
Tang Dynasty murals: Though faded, the Tang style remains.
Tang Dynasty inscriptions: It was Lin Huiyin's discovery of ink inscriptions on the beams inside the hall that finally confirmed the construction date of Foguang Temple.
Please pay special attention: on the Buddha altar in the hall is a painted sculpture of Ning Gongyu. She is not a Buddha or a Bodhisattva, but an ordinary woman who funded the construction of Foguang Temple. Mr. Liang Sicheng called her "the female benefactor of Foguang Temple." That her statue could sit on the Buddha altar and be worshipped alongside Buddhas and Bodhisattvas is extremely rare in ancient times.
Other highlights in the temple
Manjushri Hall (Jin Dynasty): The hall uses a special "column-reduction method," making the space exceptionally open.
Tang Dynasty tomb pagoda (Patriarch Pagoda): South of the East Great Hall, a simple ancient pagoda, one of the earliest structures of Foguang Temple.
Two Tang Dynasty stone pillars: Standing in front of and behind the hall, inscribed with Buddhist scriptures and construction records.
Afterward, you will drive about 1.5 hours (about 50 kilometers) to Nanchan Temple. [Nanchan Temple] is 75 years earlier than the East Great Hall of Foguang Temple. It was first built in 782 AD (Tang Dynasty), over 1,200 years ago, and is the oldest surviving wooden structure in China, bar none.
Great Buddha Hall: Greatness in Simplicity
Nanchan Temple is not large, facing south, a traditional courtyard house. The main hall, the Great Buddha Hall, has a single-eave hip-and-gable roof covered with gray cylindrical tiles. At first glance it looks plain, but it is precisely this plainness that makes it more precious. Stepping inside, you will notice an astonishing detail: the entire hall has no ceiling (exposed roof structure) and no interior columns. The weight of the roof is transmitted entirely through the outer columns and beams layer by layer. The walls are non-load-bearing, serving only as partitions and windbreaks. This simple, transparent structure is a typical feature of large wooden buildings from the mid-Tang Dynasty.
17 Tang Dynasty Painted Sculptures: Masterpieces of Tang Sculpture
On the Buddha altar in the hall, 17 Tang Dynasty painted sculptures are completely preserved, treasures of Tang Dynasty sculptural art. In the center is Sakyamuni Buddha, in the earth-touching mudra (right hand hanging before the knee, palm inward), seated on a waisted Sumeru pedestal. On either side are: two disciples — Ananda (young) and Kasyapa (elderly); two Bodhisattvas — Manjushri (riding a lion) and Samantabhadra (riding an elephant); as well as Heavenly Kings, offering Bodhisattvas, and child attendants. Each has different expressions and drapery, with smooth lines and full faces, carrying the confidence and serenity unique to the High Tang.
After the visit, you will drive to Taiyuan, the capital of Shanxi Province (about 130 kilometers, about 2.5 hours). Taiyuan is a historic and cultural city with over 2,500 years of history and the largest city in Shanxi. It is famous for its vinegar culture and noodle culture. When in Taiyuan, be sure to try authentic Shanxi knife-cut noodles, cat's ears, stir-fried bulaozi, and other noodle dishes, paired with a dish of aged vinegar — delicious. In addition, Taiyuan is Shanxi's transportation hub, making travel very convenient.
In Taiyuan, you can visit Jinci Temple (you can walk through Jinci Park, about 1 kilometer, or take a sightseeing bus at your own expense). [Jinci Temple] is China's earliest and largest surviving royal sacrificial garden, the only well-preserved royal ancestral hall, and a national first-class museum, praised as a "museum of ancient Chinese architecture." Here, you can see ancient buildings from five dynasties — Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing — as well as a 3,000-year-old Zhou cypress. They stand quietly together in harmony, like a three-dimensional history of Chinese architecture.
"Without visiting Jinci, a trip to Taiyuan is incomplete." Jinci Temple was built to commemorate Tang Shuyu, the founding monarch of the State of Jin. Tang Shuyu was the younger brother of King Cheng of Zhou, and the famous historical story "cutting a tung leaf to enfeoff a brother" is about him. His son Xie changed the state name from Tang to Jin, which later became one of the Five Hegemons of the Spring and Autumn period. Today, the main hall of Jinci, the Hall of the Holy Mother, enshrines Tang Shuyu's mother, Yijiang (queen of King Wu of Zhou, said to be the daughter of Jiang Ziya).
When visiting Jinci, be sure to see the "Three Wonders, Three Treasures, Three Plaques"
① Three Wonders (the three old objects you must not miss)
Zhou Cypress: An old cypress leaning for over three thousand years, like a hunched old man quietly watching people come and go.
Song Dynasty Painted Sculptures in the Hall of the Holy Mother: Thousand-year-old painted clay statues — 43 attendants, eunuchs, and female officials, each with different expressions, vividly lifelike. It is said that the Peking opera master Mei Lanfang long observed the Holy Mother statue here, deeply attracted by its expression of "every frown and smile revealing a lifetime."
Nanlao Spring: The source of living water for Jinci, clear and never drying up. Its name comes from the Book of Songs: "forever granted, never aging."
② Three Treasures (three treasures of the temple)
Fish Pond Flying Bridge: A cross-shaped ancient bridge about 1,500 years old, China's earliest bridge connecting water and land. Standing on it feels like stepping into ancient times.
Offering Hall: A Jin Dynasty building (1168 AD), used to display sacrificial offerings. It has fence walls on all sides, excellent ventilation, like an "ancient refrigerator." Its wooden structure makes the beams and columns bear the weight, with non-load-bearing walls.
Hall of the Holy Mother: The main hall of Jinci, a masterpiece of Song Dynasty architecture. The front corridor has eight wood-carved coiled dragons, the earliest surviving wood-carved dragons in China, with bared teeth and claws, vividly lifelike.
③ Three Plaques (three old plaques with stories)
Shuijing Terrace: The stage plaque at the entrance. This building is one of the prototypes for the scene of Sun Wukong battling Erlang Shen in the 1961 animated film Havoc in Heaven.
Duiyue: From the Book of Songs, meaning "repaying the ancestors' grace."
Nanlao: The plaque hanging over Nanlao Spring.
Tips
1. Ask your guide to take you to an excellent photo spot where you can frame the Zhou Cypress, Hall of the Holy Mother, Nanlao Spring Pavilion, and other historic sites in one photo.
2. If you are a fan of the 1986 TV series Journey to the West, many scenes were filmed at Jinci — you can check in at those scenes.
After visiting Jinci, drive to Pingyao for the night.
🍽️ Breakfast included
🏨 Pingyao