Departure from Pingyao: Wang Family Compound + Zhangbi Ancient Fortress
Today, you will travel by car to explore two treasures hidden in the land of Jinzhong: one is the Wang Family Compound, the "Folk Forbidden City," and the other is Zhangbi Ancient Fortress, the "No. 1 Village of Chinese Astrology."
The Wang Family Compound is a complex of residences built by the Wang family over more than 300 years spanning the Ming and Qing dynasties, and is hailed as the "Folk Forbidden City." It perfectly embodies the saying "the home is a courtyard, the courtyard is a city"—rather than a courtyard, it is a fully functional fortress. At its peak, the Wang Family Compound covered about 250,000 square meters, an extremely grand scale. It was built against the mountain, occupying the high ground, and various defensive designs are hidden within the courtyards. Because the Wang family was both in business and in officialdom, the residence has both the grandeur of an official mansion and the warmth of everyday life—men and women were separated, masters and servants kept order, and every brick and tile was inscribed with rules.
What to see?
Architectural layout: courtyards within courtyards, high walls linked to high walls—it is easy to get lost walking inside. You can experience what a "deep mansion and large courtyard" really means.
The art of the three carvings: the brick carvings, wood carvings, and stone carvings of the Wang Family Compound are outstanding. Doors, windows, beams, columns, wall corners... almost every place that could be carved is covered with carvings, with patterns of auspicious birds and beasts, opera stories, and auspicious flowers—every cut reveals the refinement of the old Shanxi merchants.
Next, head to Zhangbi Ancient Fortress, where "there is a city above ground and a city below ground," located in Jiexiu City, known as the "Hometown of Glazed Art." It is a miniature fortress built deep in the mountains. The most magical thing about Zhangbi Ancient Fortress is this: an above-ground fort and underground tunnels—it is one of the most completely preserved ancient military defense villages in China.
China's No. 1 Village of Astrology
The name of the fortress comes from Zhang and Bi, two of the Twenty-Eight Mansions. The layout of the entire village secretly corresponds to the stars, so it is called "China's No. 1 Village of Astrology." The buildings on the ground correspond to the Twenty-Eight Mansions in the sky, forming the wonder of "the Kui Star in heaven, Zhangbi on earth." Locals say that walking into Zhangbi is like stepping into the starry sky—though this is a romantic way of putting it, you can indeed feel the ancients' obsession with "a star in the sky, a city on earth."
Highlights of Zhangbi Ancient Fortress
1. Underground Great Wall: 10 kilometers of ancient tunnels
Beneath the fortress lies an ancient tunnel system stretching about 10 kilometers (confirmed so far), dating back about 1,600 years. It was originally a military stronghold, and later villagers used it to escape the chaos of war. The tunnels extend in all directions, with traps, ventilation holes, observation openings, ambush positions, drainage ditches... and even meeting rooms and storage rooms. You can crawl through an open section, bending low and touching the walls as you go, to personally experience the ancients' wisdom for "staying alive."
2. Above ground: temples built on the city wall
Zhangbi is very small, only 0.12 square kilometers, yet it has as many as 16 temples—and most are built on top of the city wall. The main sights include: Zhenwu Hall, Erlang Temple, Guandi Temple, and others. Standing on the city wall, you turn your head and see a temple; turn again and see a tunnel entrance—this mixed-up feeling is unique.
3. Glazed roofs: art that glows
Jiexiu has been famous for glazed ware since ancient times. The temple roofs on the city wall of Zhangbi Ancient Fortress are covered with exquisite glazed ridge ornaments—flying dragons, phoenixes, running auspicious beasts, blooming peonies, warrior figures... After hundreds of years of wind and rain, they are still brightly colored and sparkle in the sunlight.
After the tour ends, your 2-day Pingyao trip will come to a close.
Suggestions for extending the itinerary
1. If you want to extend your trip and explore other famous attractions in Shanxi, such as Datong, Taiyuan, Mount Wutai, and others, we can help you arrange the itinerary.
2. If you plan to continue exploring other cities in China, such as Beijing, Luoyang, Xi'an, Chengdu, Chongqing, and Shanghai, please feel free to let us know.
🍽️ Breakfast included
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